Twilight makes room for silence. In it you can feel loneliness and the breathof harmony. The fishermen in outrigger canoes, life-long friends with thetranquility, complement the feeling. Every night they go out. Later their lamps will illuminate the night to attract prey, like Will-o’-the wisps in thesky. The setting sun lowers itself down for a few moments of magnificent display and islands like the backs of wooded dragons, thrust out of the wateras a backdrop. Batbitim lies ahead, an island somewhere in the nowhere west of Papua New Guinea.